Climbing Conditions

5 photos

Conditions update

Monashees, Gold Range, Frigg Cirque

Climbing Conditions

Frigg Cirque seems to be the place to be these days with a recent MCR already but I know a guide exam is going there in a couple of weeks so here is an update for the aspirants.

We held a camp here July 20-25. We climbed the Angry Ptarmigan Traverse to Odin, W Ridge Hugin, E and W Ridges Mjollner, and W Ridge of Frigg Tower East.

There is good coverage on the glaciers although a few sags and cracks are showing on the Frigg Glacier and Hugin N Face with a couple of bare patches of ice showing. Rock ridges are clear of snow including most of the E Ridge of Odin. Snow was firm but not hard and we did not use crampons or gaiters the entire trip.

There is a massive glide crack below the upper slope of the Raven's Descent glacier (see image), and another big crack lower that I couldn't tell whether it was a glide crack or bergschrund. After looking at it from the summit of Hugin I started feeling a little uncomfortable with where our camp was placed (50.54702, -118.08202) at the small lake below the highest lake that sits beneath the headwall. I'm not sure of the history of this spot but I don't think that upper slope is glacier anymore, it appears to be a thick snowpack atop rock slabs. If there were a glide crack release it could hit the small lake and maybe cause a tsunami over the camp, with debris perhaps also hitting camp. If going up there it may be worth thinking of situating your camp higher, near the uppermost lake. For small groups there is also flat terrain quite a bit higher on the edge of the Frigg Glacier.

We did not do the Munin's Claw route and I'm not exactly sure where the start of that route is but there is a smaller glide crack in that vicinity as well.

We did observe a couple of glide crack avalanches on an east aspect below the NE Ridge of Frigg Tower, they didn't run far but large blocks created size 2 avalanches.

On The Map

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.