On June 17th 2025 we climbed the North Bowl route on Mt. Andromeda and descended the AA-col. We left the parking lot at 3:45am and despite a temperature of +6C we found excellent travel conditions.

We were glad to have knots in the rope on the north bowl glacier as there were several hidden crevasses under the snow.

We had excellent néve snow on the north bowl making the bergschrund crossings easy. Despite this, we belayed across them using mid-clip pickets.

We had good 1/4 boot steps in firm snow all the way up the north bowl until the last 40m ice pitch that took good screws.

We placed some pitons, replaced some webbing and left a few locking carabiners at a couple of the east ridge descent rappel stations. Remember to bring extra quick links and webbing with you if descend this way as several of the stations needed to be improved.

The bergschrund crossing on the Andromeda side of the AA-col required either traversing way-out to one side where it is still filled in or rappelling into the bergschrund on a new piton station and easily climbing out.

We brought avalanche gear (transceiver, shovel and probe) and saw one size 1 cornice fall around 11:00 down the middle earth routes on Mt. Andromeda. Several large cornices are still present at high elevations.

Attached are pictures of the route, surrounding routes and the descent.

Parks Canada Jasper Visitor Safety