Marcus Waring and I got back today from a 4 day trip (June 2-5) attempting to ski Yexyexéscen (Mt Robson).

Approach
We approached via the Patterson Spur route to RR Col. We were able to skin from 1950m (see photo) until 2650m, then again for a couple of short sections above to the col. This approach is melting fast with already lots more rocks showing today than a few days ago (see photo).
The trail to Berg Lake is still closed.

Black Towers
The Black Towers are mostly a knife edge corniced snow ridge - sometimes ice or up to waist deep snow. The crux rock section is covered with snow and looked very difficult to climb and protect, so we retreated from there (see photo).

Mt Resplendent
Mt Resplendent had beautiful dry ankle deep powder skiing June 4th. (see photo)

RR col to the Kain Face
We were able to climb up to a campsite beneath the Kain Face via the climbers left of the Mouse Trap Icefall (see first photo). This was around 45 degrees with only about 5cm snow covering ice in places, so it could have been challenging to ski down.

Kain Face
We turned around at the upper bergschrund (3290m) of the Kain Face this morning due to fresh cross loaded windslabs up to 60cm deep from northerly winds.

Patterson Couloir
We skied down the Patterson Couloir early this morning. It had skiable dry snow above the first choke (see photo), then got progressively icier and more runnelled the further we descended. We eventually had to put our boot crampons on and down climb because there were frozen runnels up to 1m deep (see photo). This couloir has a lot of overhead hazard from the Dome that was shedding regularly during the day.

Summary
We’re currently in a transition period from winter to summer. Lower elevations felt like summer, but there is still dry snow in many places above 3000m. Enjoy the remainder of spring!

Alex Geary and Marcus Waring
ACMG Mountain Guides